VMS Supplies CM04 Hull Tex Air Cement & Texture for AFV Anti-slip Textures (2x 20ml)
A unique solution for replicating factory applied anti-slip coatings as seen on vehicles such as M2 Bradley, Stryker vehicle family, LAV, AVGP Cougar, AVGP Husky, Leopard, Boxer, Strv 122, Challenger 2 and others. The bundle contains proprietary slow curing, high solids adhesive and liquid micronised texturing material dispersion (liquid aggregate). The application process is similar to real life ant-slip creation procedure conducted in the factories. Product requires a 0.5 airbrush nozzle and a good compressor (2 piston type with 3 l air tank or better) to deliver constant pressure between 50 and 60 PSI. If you are normally using hi-standard tools for painting purposes we recommend that you dedicate a less expensive airbrush for the purpose of applying anti-slip although with correct nozzle and pressure there are no problems, cleaning the tool is very easy as the liquid texturing material contains no binder. Please refer to product FAQ for details!
Recommended techniques: brush & airbrush
Available volumes: 2 x 20 ml bottles in each bundle
Which anti-slip type is correct for my particular AFV.
There are two types of anti-slip to consider. Coarse aggregate based anti-slip type as seen on Merkava or Abrams - these vehicles originally came without the coating and were updated with it after entering the service. The second type is much finer factory-grade anti-slip applied by the vehicle manufacturer as seen on a Stryker. Please refer to compatibility chart to know which Hull Tex type is right for your model.
Which scale is Hull Tex Air good for.
It depends on the vehicle. When applied over a 1:35 vehicle the product will mimic fine factor-grade anti-slip coating as seen on a Stryker. When applied over a smaller scale vehicle it will replicate coarse aggregate-based anti-slip as seen on a Merkava. This makes Hull Tex Air a very versatile product. Please refer to the product compatibility chart.
How do I proceed with Hull Tex Air.
STEP 1 - APPLYING THE ADHESIVE: Spread an even film of adhesive over the target areas with a brush. The layer needs to be even and cover every bit of the area, use cat's tongue type brush which allows you to be both precise and quick (this brush has has flat and pointed bristle for both precision and efficiency). No masking of surroundings is needed, any excessive aggregate you spray during the next step will simply be swept off the model later.
You can use masks in case you need the glue layer to be of a specific shape for example to make a sharp rectangular ant-slip patch or an otherwise irregular anti-slip. Such mask must be removed once the adhesive dries up, prior spraying the aggregate. The adhesive is supposed to dry up before spraying, so you can work slowly and be thorough, liquid aggregate will reactivate the glue once sprayed. When the model is all covered with the adhesive leave it to dry for 1h. You can apply heat to expedite things.
STEP 2 - APPLYING THE TEXTURE: Shake the bottle well before use! Look at the bottom to make sure the texturing liquid is mixed well! Test spray over a sheet of paper. If airbrush clogs simply back flush it. Spray texturing material over adhesive film, the spraying distance is 20-30 cm, nozzle size 0.5 mm, pressure is 50-60 PSI. Contrary to normal painting you need to overspray the texturing material, make sure the distance is kept, the layer applied thin and not running otherwise the texture won't be pronounced. Spray each area in several 1 second bursts just as you would with expensive perfume. After the layer is dry (allow 1-2h or force dry) remove the excess by sweeping with a brush and rinsing with running water.
STEP 3 - FINISHING: After the spraying please allow the anti-slip to dry, it needs several hours, you can use hair drier to expedite the process. Warm air doesn't change the adhesive's properties it just helps you evaporate the solvent. When dry you can start removing the loose texturing material with a dusting brush. Scrape away any misplaced aggregate with your hobby knife or a toothpick. When the model is more or less cleaned up give it a detergent bath - water with some dish washing liquid will do great. After the rinse you can further correct (scrape) any places that require it. Use fine sanding paper to even any irregularities like blobs of aggregate. Please refer to the video for details.
How is this better than using spraying textured paints or overspraying primers.
There are numerous reasons:
Hull Tex Air doesn't require masking while applying the texture as anti-slip is created only where you apply the glue has been applied. This saves you a lot of time and hassle - no need to create masks and no danger of damaging the anti-slip layers - masks often damage anti-slip layers when they are being removed,
Hull Tex Air is easily removed when necessary, no reaction with plastic,
Hull Tex texturing material (aggregate) has its grain size up to scale - grain size is 0,035 mm (35um), this means you may replicate super fine textures.
Hull Tex can be applied over complex vehicles with lots of panel lines and it will not affect the detail level as as excessive aggregate is simply swept away!
Hull Tex Air doesn't contain binder in the texturing fluid which means much easier tool cleaning,
Can I create cast turret or mantlet textures with Hull Tex Air.
Yes. Proceed as with anti-slip. Shorter spraying times equal softer texture, longer result in more pronounced textures.
I created my anti-slip but need to make it less pronounced and irregular as seen on a Challenger 2 tanks.
Please carefully sand the area using 1500 grade or finer sand paper to flatten the area and introduce irregularities.
I have trouble priming the textured model!
Just spray from different angles and you will be all right, make sure paint is thin so that it can level well, if too thick paint will not migrate within the anti-slip layer! Remember every additional coat of paint makes the texture less pronounced but usual 3-4 layers including primer are completely fine.
I got overeager with the adhesive and aggregate ended up in wrong places.
Simply scrape the misplaced anti-slip away with your hobby knife or a toothpick.
What is open time of Hull Tex Air.
Dispensed adhesive is good for around 30 minutes. When applied over the model the adhesive dries up quickly - apply layers in succession, make sure they are nice and even for best results. The adhesive is supposed to dry before spraying the aggregate so there is no need to hurry!
I need to remove anti-slip as I don't like the initial result and want to start anew now that I got the hang of it.
You can remove an anti-slip layer using VMS Clean Slate remover. Apply the remover over target area and give it several minutes to dissolve the layer, then sweep it away with a brush. Rinse the model with water then clean up remaining aggregate with water and dish washing fluid. If there is some anti-slip left reapply the Clean Slate remover.
There are little blobs and bigger chunks of texturing material on my anti-slip coating!
You can easily sand them down using 1500 of finer sanding paper. Make circles while sanding and be very careful - keep the proper anti-slip is intact. Refer to video - skip to time point of 11:19 we show how to sand there.
I applied the texture as instructed but when dry the ant-slip colour is not consistent - some places are white some not so much.
This is caused by difference in thickness of adhesive layer you applied prior to spraying the texture. Places where adhesive layer was thicker will be less "white". This is not a problem as this is just a play of light - the texture layer is OK and will look great once painted. You don't need to spray more texture.
Which agent to use to clean brushes.
You can use VMS Cleans Slate paint remover or VMS Styrene Cements.
Which agent to use to clean airbrush.
The liquid aggregate contains no binder hence you can use tap water.
Recommended techniques: brush & airbrush
Available volumes: 2 x 20 ml bottles in each bundle
Which anti-slip type is correct for my particular AFV.
There are two types of anti-slip to consider. Coarse aggregate based anti-slip type as seen on Merkava or Abrams - these vehicles originally came without the coating and were updated with it after entering the service. The second type is much finer factory-grade anti-slip applied by the vehicle manufacturer as seen on a Stryker. Please refer to compatibility chart to know which Hull Tex type is right for your model.
Which scale is Hull Tex Air good for.
It depends on the vehicle. When applied over a 1:35 vehicle the product will mimic fine factor-grade anti-slip coating as seen on a Stryker. When applied over a smaller scale vehicle it will replicate coarse aggregate-based anti-slip as seen on a Merkava. This makes Hull Tex Air a very versatile product. Please refer to the product compatibility chart.
How do I proceed with Hull Tex Air.
STEP 1 - APPLYING THE ADHESIVE: Spread an even film of adhesive over the target areas with a brush. The layer needs to be even and cover every bit of the area, use cat's tongue type brush which allows you to be both precise and quick (this brush has has flat and pointed bristle for both precision and efficiency). No masking of surroundings is needed, any excessive aggregate you spray during the next step will simply be swept off the model later.
You can use masks in case you need the glue layer to be of a specific shape for example to make a sharp rectangular ant-slip patch or an otherwise irregular anti-slip. Such mask must be removed once the adhesive dries up, prior spraying the aggregate. The adhesive is supposed to dry up before spraying, so you can work slowly and be thorough, liquid aggregate will reactivate the glue once sprayed. When the model is all covered with the adhesive leave it to dry for 1h. You can apply heat to expedite things.
STEP 2 - APPLYING THE TEXTURE: Shake the bottle well before use! Look at the bottom to make sure the texturing liquid is mixed well! Test spray over a sheet of paper. If airbrush clogs simply back flush it. Spray texturing material over adhesive film, the spraying distance is 20-30 cm, nozzle size 0.5 mm, pressure is 50-60 PSI. Contrary to normal painting you need to overspray the texturing material, make sure the distance is kept, the layer applied thin and not running otherwise the texture won't be pronounced. Spray each area in several 1 second bursts just as you would with expensive perfume. After the layer is dry (allow 1-2h or force dry) remove the excess by sweeping with a brush and rinsing with running water.
STEP 3 - FINISHING: After the spraying please allow the anti-slip to dry, it needs several hours, you can use hair drier to expedite the process. Warm air doesn't change the adhesive's properties it just helps you evaporate the solvent. When dry you can start removing the loose texturing material with a dusting brush. Scrape away any misplaced aggregate with your hobby knife or a toothpick. When the model is more or less cleaned up give it a detergent bath - water with some dish washing liquid will do great. After the rinse you can further correct (scrape) any places that require it. Use fine sanding paper to even any irregularities like blobs of aggregate. Please refer to the video for details.
How is this better than using spraying textured paints or overspraying primers.
There are numerous reasons:
Hull Tex Air doesn't require masking while applying the texture as anti-slip is created only where you apply the glue has been applied. This saves you a lot of time and hassle - no need to create masks and no danger of damaging the anti-slip layers - masks often damage anti-slip layers when they are being removed,
Hull Tex Air is easily removed when necessary, no reaction with plastic,
Hull Tex texturing material (aggregate) has its grain size up to scale - grain size is 0,035 mm (35um), this means you may replicate super fine textures.
Hull Tex can be applied over complex vehicles with lots of panel lines and it will not affect the detail level as as excessive aggregate is simply swept away!
Hull Tex Air doesn't contain binder in the texturing fluid which means much easier tool cleaning,
Can I create cast turret or mantlet textures with Hull Tex Air.
Yes. Proceed as with anti-slip. Shorter spraying times equal softer texture, longer result in more pronounced textures.
I created my anti-slip but need to make it less pronounced and irregular as seen on a Challenger 2 tanks.
Please carefully sand the area using 1500 grade or finer sand paper to flatten the area and introduce irregularities.
I have trouble priming the textured model!
Just spray from different angles and you will be all right, make sure paint is thin so that it can level well, if too thick paint will not migrate within the anti-slip layer! Remember every additional coat of paint makes the texture less pronounced but usual 3-4 layers including primer are completely fine.
I got overeager with the adhesive and aggregate ended up in wrong places.
Simply scrape the misplaced anti-slip away with your hobby knife or a toothpick.
What is open time of Hull Tex Air.
Dispensed adhesive is good for around 30 minutes. When applied over the model the adhesive dries up quickly - apply layers in succession, make sure they are nice and even for best results. The adhesive is supposed to dry before spraying the aggregate so there is no need to hurry!
I need to remove anti-slip as I don't like the initial result and want to start anew now that I got the hang of it.
You can remove an anti-slip layer using VMS Clean Slate remover. Apply the remover over target area and give it several minutes to dissolve the layer, then sweep it away with a brush. Rinse the model with water then clean up remaining aggregate with water and dish washing fluid. If there is some anti-slip left reapply the Clean Slate remover.
There are little blobs and bigger chunks of texturing material on my anti-slip coating!
You can easily sand them down using 1500 of finer sanding paper. Make circles while sanding and be very careful - keep the proper anti-slip is intact. Refer to video - skip to time point of 11:19 we show how to sand there.
I applied the texture as instructed but when dry the ant-slip colour is not consistent - some places are white some not so much.
This is caused by difference in thickness of adhesive layer you applied prior to spraying the texture. Places where adhesive layer was thicker will be less "white". This is not a problem as this is just a play of light - the texture layer is OK and will look great once painted. You don't need to spray more texture.
Which agent to use to clean brushes.
You can use VMS Cleans Slate paint remover or VMS Styrene Cements.
Which agent to use to clean airbrush.
The liquid aggregate contains no binder hence you can use tap water.
| General Info | |
| Scale | Non-Scale |
| Type | Modelling Tools |
| Subtype | Cement / Glue |
- Stock: In Stock
- Reward Points: 14
- SKU: VMS-CM04
- 2pcs in Stock
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